The late Jane Birkin’s presence was felt across the spring/summer 2024 collections: models carried woven baskets and leather totes spilling over with belongings and decorated with trinkets, echoing the chaotic manner in which the actor used to stuff her namesake Birkin bags. Charms and keys decorated black leather bags at Balenciaga, at Bottega Veneta baskets contained rolled up newspapers and a change of shirt, and spare pairs of shoes spilled from Miu Miu’s totes. Here were accessories designed for heavy-duty use, rather than to be a mere finishing touch for an outfit.

The quiet luxury aesthetic that has dominated the handbag category over the past few seasons has seen a focus on clean lines, supple leather and an absence of logos. But amidst the minimal envelope clutches and simple leather totes were handbags brimming with personality. At Prada, frame-style bags in shirred leather or silk came with an eccentric hand-carved fastening resembling a horrified man’s head. Sabato De Sarno made his debut at Gucci and gave the classic Jackie bag a revamp via webs of dazzling crystals. Proportions were key across all cities, with enormous bags at Victoria Beckham, The Row and Loewe, juxtaposed with shrunken mini bags that laughed in the face of practicality.

From the ultra-practical clutch bag to the supersized tote, Vogue breaks down the key bag shapes for spring/summer 2024, and highlights the specific styles destined for cult status.